Thinking about getting this 97

Cam and crank sensors, coils help big time(which is fairly specific to mine with COP)

An extra MAF couldn’t hurt either though 99.9% of the time a “bad” one just needs to be cleaned
 
Got the Dorman intake unit and I've got a question about it.

Is the rear coolant passage supposed to be blocked off? I thought that there was a crossover coolant passage on the rear of the intake manifold as well?

1000000819.jpg

1000000820.jpg

1000000821.jpg
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Got the Dorman intake unit and I've got a question about it.

Is the rear coolant passage supposed to be blocked off? I thought that there was a crossover coolant passage on the rear of the intake manifold as well?

View attachment 13120

View attachment 13121

View attachment 13122
Click to expand...

It’s just a plug with a clamp you can remove. Dormans are one size fits all so to speak so they’ll come with plugs like that one as well as the screw in ones on the crossover depending on application.

In your case you want both front crossover plugs removed for the PCM and gauge ECT sensors and the heater core one removed
 
XR7-4.6 said:
It’s just a plug with a clamp you can remove. Dormans are one size fits all so to speak so they’ll come with plugs like that one as well as the screw in ones on the crossover depending on application.

In your case you want both front crossover plugs removed for the PCM and gauge ECT sensors and the heater core one removed
Click to expand...

This is the specific area I'm talking about. You can clearly see it's blocked off and there is no coolant passage going from left to right sides of the engine (heads). And doesn't there need to be two nipples coming from the back for the water heater?

1000000828.jpg
 
That port on the back of the driver's head doesn't do anything. The heater core is fed by coolant from the top of the rear of the passenger side head, and returns via the valley hose to the water pump.

This design is a part of the reason why cylinders 7 and 8 tend to run hot, and the issue that prompted the apten cooling mod.
 
So what you're saying is that this intake manifold is correct and can be used safely, @theterminator93

I knew about the rear two cylinders running hot, but never knew exactly why. I knew the mod existed, but never realized how it was performed.
 
I'd like a nice FN10 as a Daily when my son moves out and I have a place to park it. Certainly not the most economical car as far as fuel mileage, but the cost for a decent one should be low enough to justify it. Figure I could get coil overs and put the fronts on the Cougar and move the Voglands to the Mark.

Ya, saying that, I can see the possible project a second car becomes.. Plus I'm already contemplating updating a car that's not even yet running😅
 
Im excited to hear your first impressions between the lower and higher mileage if any.

Zep5.0 said:
I'd like a nice FN10 as a Daily when my son moves out and I have a place to park it. Certainly not the most economical car as far as fuel mileage, but the cost for a decent one should be low enough to justify it. Figure I could get coil overs and put the fronts on the Cougar and move the Voglands to the Mark.
Click to expand...

Its like watching the directors cut. Pains me to say it but I think the FN10 is just more artsy and plush. The MN12 seems more like a car and ready to do some tasks

Heres some bias though:
Way less time to get used to it. 10 years of MN12 vs 1 year of weekend cruiser
It could be that I just dont like air suspension. Though great when Im crossing a railroad track
The bird was purchased with performance tires and larger wheels, the FN10 was not. With a recent tendon injury, the FN10 steering is less taxing physically
Simple interface vs I dont like all the buttons!

I like the FN10 a lot but curious to see the tables turned for a little while

theterminator93 said:
It's not too bad actually. I get about 26 on the highway (give or take, depending on wind/temp/speed) and 22-23 combined. The non-LSC with the 3.07 gets another ~2 MPG on the freeway.
Click to expand...

Do you find that the mpg display is way less accurate than a scanner? I need to remember to run them both
 
The average fuel readout for each fill-up is pretty accurate. Anytime it's off it's because the last time I filled the car it wasn't on level ground. More fuel fits in the tank if it's pointed downhill than if it's pointed uphill, sometimes a difference upwards of a gallon.
 
theterminator93 said:
It's not too bad actually. I get about 26 on the highway (give or take, depending on wind/temp/speed) and 22-23 combined. The non-LSC with the 3.07 gets another ~2 MPG on the freeway.

Click to expand...
My Cougar regularly did 25-27 mpg with the 2.73 rears. But my commute is a blend of highway and city. For reference, my new truck does 20ish highway and 14 in my normal work driving. Of I had to guess my Cougar would be around 17-18. Thinking a Mark would be similar, which is by no means bad. A decent newer FWD car would more money to front, but mileage could be in the 25+ range.

Just an idea for now, and CDs helped plant the 2 luxury couple idea here
 
Thinking about calling it a night. I've spent the last 4hrs getting the Sport wheels from Pearl prepped for painting and I've still got a ways to go. Needless to say though, the wheels are turning out pretty good so far.

Also, I wasn't aware that the 15" wheels that my Gold Bird came with are 215 width tires. The little extra bit of width from the Sport wheels will hopefully make it ride a little bit better. We shall see.

1000000841.jpg

The two on the right have already been sanded down ready for paint. The two on the left still need sanding. I took the advice of @KevinVarnes and am hopeful that mine will turn out as good as his. I just hope I got enough paint for the job!

1000000845.jpg
 
So I just did a test spray of the gray I purchased, and I'm not sure I like it. IMO, it looks like primer gray to me. When I got this, I thought it was going to be dark. I think I'm looking for something closer to black like @Wile E. Coyote and his TE37 wheels. Is this dark gray, or am I tripping?

For reference, primer is on top dark gray in bottom.

1000000848.jpg
 
Grey TE37s to me are more of a metallic dark charcoal, rustoleum dark grey would be last on my list to mimic the color, as just as you said it’s basically primer grey.

I mean it matches the cap, that should have been the first red flag!
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Grey TE37s to me are more of a metallic dark charcoal, rustoleum dark grey would be last on my list to mimic the color, as just as you said it’s basically primer grey.

I mean it matches the cap, that should have been the first red flag!
Click to expand...

TBH, I couldn't remember what the color looked like and I didn't think to pull up a picture of them to try and get a close match. Mainly because I was in a bit of a hurry. Guess that's what I get for that.

I'm going to return these two grays I got and look for something closer match.
 
KevinVarnes said:
Are you using the Painter's Touch for your color coat? I used this garb on my wheels and it was a spot on match for the Ford powder coat.

I then used the wheel clear coat over top of the color.
Click to expand...

Graphite would specifically be the one to use if shooting for dark grey/charcoal. Either way at least metallic which I’m not sure any painters touch rustoleums are.

Personally I just don’t like rustoleum enamels, I much prefer Duplicolor and VHT for rattlecan finishes
 
As far as fuel mileage goes I don’t care too much, my cars are paid off. I wouldn’t carry a car payment, with the added insurance and tax just to save some at the pump.
 
Wile E. Coyote said:
I used a duplicolor graphite when i did the TEs. Clear them so they pop. Other wise they go matte.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Also consider using 2K clear coat. It will give a much more durable coat. Use proper safety precautions when spraying it!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top