What did you do with your Thunderbird Today?

MadMikeyL said:
With the trans out, you can replace just the front seal without having to pull the pump. If the only purpose of the automatic is to last long enough to get the 5-speed swap certified, that is all I would do.
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Indeed that is the only purpose. Is it really that simple to replace the front pump seal?

How do I know that there isn't anything else going on? But I guess you're right, I shouldn't care what else is going on so long as it shifts fine (it does / did).

While it's out, how do I go about checking other things to ensure it's working fine without getting deeper than I have to?
 
Yeah, pry the old one out with a screwdriver and tap the new one in with a hammer. The only thing I would check is make sure there isn’t any damage to the snout of the torque converter, but based on how much is leaking out, I suspect the seal will be obviously torn once you get the converter out.
 
MadMikeyL said:
Yeah, pry the old one out with a screwdriver and tap the new one in with a hammer. The only thing I would check is make sure there isn’t any damage to the snout of the torque converter, but based on how much is leaking out, I suspect the seal will be obviously torn once you get the converter out.
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So it's just behind the torque converter?
 
CDsDontBurn said:
I'm looking at buying the Caddy Brembo calipers. The 14" look awesome but definitely overkill for my mostly stock power output. So the 13" Caddy Brembo calipers will likely be the go-to calipers for me.

Last week I dropped off the front shocks to the machine shop for modification. He's a bit scared of doing the mod, but I told him it's fine and that it's been done before. I told him to both shave off a hair of the ID of the tube and to shave off the paint of the Bilstein unit.

Other than that, I haven't done anything else to mine since stripping down the front suspension.

I'm planning on dropping the transmission soon, but the home improvement projects are taking priority right now.
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Have you measured the inside of the shocks? Mine slid right in. And what are you having him do? Cutting the shocks? That's super easy with some tape as a guide and an angle grinder. Then the hole in the bottom of the shock just goes right in the center.
 
Zep5.0 said:
Have you measured the inside of the shocks? Mine slid right in. And what are you having him do? Cutting the shocks? That's super easy with some tape as a guide and an angle grinder. Then the hole in the bottom of the shock just goes right in the center.
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I did. There's a difference of 1.6mm between the ID of the tube and the OD of the Bilstein.

I used my sawzall to chop off the top, so it was pretty chewed up when I opened it. My measurement of the ID of the tube may be off as a result.

MadMikeyL said:
Yes. It looks just like a crankshaft front seal.
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Sounds like I'll be giving a shot at making the repair on my own then! I imagine I have to drain the fluid first, right? And second, this is the front pump seal, right?

1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD 4.6L V8 Fluid Pump Seal | Shop Now at RockAuto

Transmission-Automatic Parts and More for Your 1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
www.rockauto.com
 
CDsDontBurn said:
I did. There's a difference of 1.6mm between the ID of the tube and the OD of the Bilstein.

I used my sawzall to chop off the top, so it was pretty chewed up when I opened it. My measurement of the ID of the tube may be off as a result.



Sounds like I'll be giving a shot at making the repair on my own then! I imagine I have to drain the fluid first, right? And second, this is the front pump seal, right?

1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD 4.6L V8 Fluid Pump Seal | Shop Now at RockAuto

Transmission-Automatic Parts and More for Your 1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
www.rockauto.com
Click to expand...
Use a round file to debur the opening and try to slide them in.

I rarely use a sawzall anymore. Certain things you need it for, but an angle grinder is generally more controllable to me. I even use the flappy wheels for sanding and shaping. Pretty sweet tool.
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Sounds like I'll be giving a shot at making the repair on my own then! I imagine I have to drain the fluid first, right? And second, this is the front pump seal, right?

1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD 4.6L V8 Fluid Pump Seal | Shop Now at RockAuto

Transmission-Automatic Parts and More for Your 1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
www.rockauto.com
Click to expand...

You don't actually have to drain the fluid to change it, though I'd do it anyway. The vast majority of the ATF when static is inside the torque converter and pan, with the rest puddling in various valvebody circuits or clutch packs. Taking out the seal in a full transmission wont lose much if any fluid as long as it's level
 
Zep5.0 said:
Use a round file to debur the opening and try to slide them in.

I rarely use a sawzall anymore. Certain things you need it for, but an angle grinder is generally more controllable to me. I even use the flappy wheels for sanding and shaping. Pretty sweet tool.
Click to expand...

Next time I'll try it that way, lol. I still have another set of OEM shocks I can tear apart if needed.

XR7-4.6 said:
You don't actually have to drain the fluid to change it, though I'd do it anyway. The vast majority of the ATF when static is inside the torque converter and pan, with the rest puddling in various valvebody circuits or clutch packs. Taking out the seal in a full transmission wont lose much if any fluid as long as it's level
Click to expand...

So what does it mean when the nose of the car is up and it's still leaking from the bell housing area? 🤔
 
Zep5.0 said:
I rarely use a sawzall anymore. Certain things you need it for, but an angle grinder is generally more controllable to me. I even use the flappy wheels for sanding and shaping. Pretty sweet tool.
Click to expand...

We use portable Bandsaws to cut pipes and metal. It cuts straight, no sparks and not nearly as loud. 😉
 
Took it out for a drive not just the first time since the cam swap but since November! It still needs further idle/dashpot work but I’ve now gotten it to the point of drivable with some occasional heel/toe when it feels like it might stall, surprisingly spunky at lower RPM but they are advanced a good bit. Got two thumbs ups from people in a 20 minute shakedown so I must be doing something right.
 
Today, I finally got around to installing the extensions to the foot pedals of the Cougar for the wife. I tried a set from Amazon and about threw them against the wall... just rediculouse. I made a pair of wooden extensions, shaped them to fit the peddle and made slots in the brake for straps and holes in the accelerator peddle for straps to hold them to the peddle.

20250524_155551.jpg

Yes, me and the router had a little hissy fit, it tried to go one way while i was going the other way. So typical of a router when free-handing it.
 
CDsDontBurn said:
I'm looking at buying the Caddy Brembo calipers. The 14" look awesome but definitely overkill for my mostly stock power output. So the 13" Caddy Brembo calipers will likely be the go-to calipers for me.

Last week I dropped off the front shocks to the machine shop for modification. He's a bit scared of doing the mod, but I told him it's fine and that it's been done before. I told him to both shave off a hair of the ID of the tube and to shave off the paint of the Bilstein unit.

Other than that, I haven't done anything else to mine since stripping down the front suspension.

I'm planning on dropping the transmission soon, but the home improvement projects are taking priority
Click to expand...
I went from the 13” brembo’s to the 14” simply because I had a set of GT500 rotors laying around from another project. They don’t stop that much better.

Main reason I did it is because I like how it fills up the 18” better 13” vs 14” might not seem like a lot but to me it really did justify it haha
 
Chingon1 said:
I went from the 13” brembo’s to the 14” simply because I had a set of GT500 rotors laying around from another project. They don’t stop that much better.

Main reason I did it is because I like how it fills up the 18” better 13” vs 14” might not seem like a lot but to me it really did justify it haha
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It sounds more aesthetic than anything then.

Still have those 13" calipers? We can meetup somewhere between Redlands and LA.
 
@CDsDontBurn
Super aesthetic 😬 I like how all the new sports cars have phat ass rotors behind the wheels.

sorry brolio I parted ways with em a lil while back. If you havnt got any check eBay you can find em prettt cheap used, orrrr rock auto has them brand new kinda cheap.
 

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New bearings/hubs and Energy Suspension bushings. One old bearing race was a bear to get out so a flame wrench and water were in order. I used Harbor freight hole saw for the win to bring everything in. The CVSource guy is well versed on everything CV joint related and did a great job on the rebuilding of the RAxles, they really needed it after taking a pounding after all these years. I also ordered a Powershift Factory rear diff mount for the party as well.
 
Big Scott said:
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New bearings/hubs and Energy Suspension bushings. One old bearing race was a bear to get out so a flame wrench and water were in order. I used Harbor freight hole saw for the win to bring everything in. The CVSource guy is well versed on everything CV joint related and did a great job on the rebuilding of the RAxles, they really needed it after taking a pounding after all these years. I also ordered a Powershift Factory rear diff mount for the party as well.
Click to expand...


I’m totally digging that exhaust setup. Magnaflows???
 
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