What did you do with your Thunderbird Today?

My bike weighs 80 lbs... It would be a real bitch to get it up on top of the trunk, let alone the roof and simply lifing it onto a trunk mounted rack is a chore.

bike ramp.jpg

That's why I need a bike ramp. But seriusly, how hard could it be to make something like this when I learn to weld with a mig. I made two ramps for a car trailer some 30+ years ago when I took a welding class.

"Don't use it, you lose it"
 
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Ericv8thunderbird said:
I need to put the exhaust back on but it’s pretty much done, the top bolt of the shifter is just touching the center console, so I’m going to grab a button / Allen head type bolt tomorrow and see if that clears it.
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It also helps to put the linkbar on the other side of the shift lever.

Great work! I love that shift knob, bought one a few years ago but it didn’t match the vibe I was after for my interior
 
XR7-4.6 said:
It also helps to put the linkbar on the other side of the shift lever.

Great work! I love that shift knob, bought one a few years ago but it didn’t match the vibe I was after for my interior
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Are you only running one link bar? I’m running 2.

I got that shift knob cause it matches my FR500 steering wheel, I saw a few reviews that the numbers end up rubbing off, hopefully that doesn’t happen.
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Ericv8thunderbird said:
Are you only running one link bar? I’m running 2.

I got that shift knob cause it matches my FR500 steering wheel, I saw a few reviews that the numbers end up rubbing off, hopefully that doesn’t happen.
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Yeah, on my original setup I used two link bars but at one point I reconfigured the bearings as they’d get a little loose periodically, and in the process found trying just the one linkbar proved adequate enough, and stuck with that for the new bar for the console swap
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Yeah, on my original setup I used two link bars but at one point I reconfigured the bearings as they’d get a little loose periodically, and in the process found trying just the one linkbar proved adequate enough, and stuck with that for the new bar for the console swap
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Makes sense, seems like the one link bar would take a little bit of the stiffness out of neutral.
I’ll remove the passenger side bar tomorrow and see how that feels.
 
Big Scott said:
Had no idea you were talking about a motorcycle type bike.
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Yeah, that was crappy of me to not mention it. My apologies.

PS: Nice dog! We had one a lot like that. She was our last dog.
 

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Ericv8thunderbird said:
I need to put the exhaust back on but it’s pretty much done, the top bolt of the shifter is just touching the center console, so I’m going to grab a button / Allen head type bolt tomorrow and see if that clears it.
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So the fog light switch goes in the slot closest to the shifter... hmmm.... I will need to switch mine. Never saw anyone else that had that switch installed. Thanks for sharing.
 
White Lincoln said:
So the fog light switch goes in the slot closest to the shifter... hmmm.... I will need to switch mine. Never saw anyone else that had that switch installed. Thanks for sharing.
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I actually think it sits in the rear one, I believe the wiring harness was hitting something, so I moved it to the front.
 
Spent pretty much all day installing my SVO supercharger, only to find out Stiegemeier installed my snout upside down, I didn’t realize this until I tried to put on the alternator bracket.

I sent them a nice email!

Here’s a picture of my blower, and one off google images. The fill port should be on the drivers side, not the passenger side


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Is it upside down or is it an updated design where the snout is now on the opposite side?

If not, that's a pretty big whoopsie on their part!
 
It’s upside down. The good news is it should just be a matter of pulling the snout/rotors flipping them and bolting them back up
 
You'd think that this would be something that only goes in "one way".

Like, the snout should have an indent or something that makes it impossible to fit any other way except for the right way, no?

But, what do I know...
 
Replaced the UCAs on the Mark (again) - last time was 2018 and ~90,000 ago. One side was rattling and the other was OK but I figured "replace them both."

Should have only taken 20 minutes or so a side, but the darned air solenoid boss was in the way of the bolt so I had to remove the shocks from their upper mounts to get them out. :rolleyes:

But hey, now that the entire front end has been refreshed I better be good past 300,000 miles!
 
I adjusted the Transmission Shift Control Cable and Bracket (#4 in diagram) by loosening and re-fastening the nut (#5) to the Transmission Shift Cable Bracket (#2).

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Note this tiny gap in the overspray of the old black underbody coating. This minuscule adjustment makes all the difference. (The wetness is just WD40 I sprayed to loosen the nut.)

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Why all this?

My shifter was ever so slightly misaligned with the transmission. Latched in D, if you pushed the release button on the shifter, it immediately moved backwards slightly, indicating that there was some pressure on the shift cable (possibly it stretched over time?).

Following this procedure, when shifting to D, the shifter wants to be exactly where it latches.
 
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