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The G8 interior is definitely more generic, I consider it a downgrade from the 04-06 GTO from a previous generation. The SS revamp was a big improvement.

Exterior, I like the G8 better too BUT the base G8 was also V6 powered so any SS you find will be high spec. Also SS is easier to rebadge as a Holden which somehow makes them look better 😆

Caprices meh, if I were to seek out an ex cop car on the cheap I’d rather pick up a Charger. It’s better looking than the Caprice which is really awkwardly in it’s stretched proportions and parts support will ultimately favor the Dodge since there’s just so many out there.
I don't disagree, but I would take a Caprice no problem. Guy I work with has two sons. One had an MSP Charger and the other had an MSP Caprice. I've done work on both. Both are very nice cars. Too much brain box crap in them for me though.

In other news, I don't think I have ever actually seen a Chevy SS anywhere except in pictures online. Much like the new Chargers that I have yet to see either.
 
I don't disagree, but I would take a Caprice no problem. Guy I work with has two sons. One had an MSP Charger and the other had an MSP Caprice. I've done work on both. Both are very nice cars. Too much brain box crap in them for me though.

In other news, I don't think I have ever actually seen a Chevy SS anywhere except in pictures online. Much like the new Chargers that I have yet to see either.


Probably regional like as @CDsDontBurn observed where he actually does see new Charger Daytonas, I actually see quite a few SSs in the area, they’re not common by any means but not Bigfoot sightings like some cars.

I actually see more SSs than I ever remember seeing G8s prior. They’re out there but they’re rarer than MN12 sightings these days!
 
Well, it looks like I'm doing both CV axles and motor mounts for my MIL's Ford Fuckus.

I hate working on that car, lol.

Anyone have any tips on what I should look out for? I've done CV axles and motor mounts before, but of course, never on this Fuckus.
 
My Buick that I’ve been daily driving decided to loose oil pressure after getting off the highway today. Unfortunately, the engine is toast now. Which is really unfortunate cause the car its self is pretty clean. How often does that happen on a GM 3800 engine?!
 
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I thought those GMs had an oil pressure switch that would kill the engine if the pressure dropped. 🤔
 
The 90s 4.3s had that oil pressure cutoff for the fuel pump relay. I never saw it on any other GMs, or any other cars for that matter.

On the bright side, used 3800s are dirt cheap cause they never die, so there is no demand for them. Did you figure out why it lost oil pressure? Those pumps are driven right off the crank, so there isn’t any drive-rod to fail like on the SBC/SBF. Unless the filter blew out, I can’t see what would cause sudden loss of all oil pressure. One thing I have seen on those is the threads for the rocker arm bolts strip out of the head, and the rocker falls off and you get a misfire, and a weird valve train noise that sounds like a knock.
 
So...for the oil pressure uneducated among us, how long after the pressure drop do you get a warning light, and how fast after that do you have to stop the engine to prevent major damage?

Really sorry this happened, @Ericv8thunderbird . I love those Buicks. Prefer the Park Avenues and early Lucerns, but the LeSabres are nice, too.
 
On a stock Ford, your oil pressure light will come on when the pressure drops below 7psi. As for how long before engine damage, it depends. No oil pressure idling at a stoplight is a very different scenario than no oil pressure at WOT and 5k rpms. Regardless, you want to shut it down ASAP, but if you lose oil pressure on the highway, your engine is likely going to be toast by the time you notice any warning lights.
 
As soon as I came off the highway, the oil light came on, but I didn’t hear anything. Then as I was accelerating from the stop light I heard light tapping, I checked the oil pressure and it was at 20psi and falling from there, I pulled into a parking lot and the pressure dropped to 4psi and the knocking started getting louder so I shut the car off.

Those 3800 engines run at 30 psi at idle, and 70-80psi at start up. So at 4 psi it’s safe to say the engine is smoked.

I don’t really need the car anymore since I’m no longer working on the road, and I planned on selling it late next spring, but it is a bummer. I just put a ton of new parts into it.

Luckily, the tow truck driver said he was interested in it, and he’ll buy it when he comes back from his vacation next week. That saves me the hassle of dealing with morons on marketplace.
 
This conversation reminds me of when the OG engine in my 96 Mark developed rod knock, and I was convinced to risk driving it up to the Detroit area to have a guy there do an engine swap for me. It held together for a little while... long enough for me to make it about 50 miles, then suddenly got worse over the course of a few seconds while going 70 MPH with the oil light subsequently coming on. I was able to throw it in neutral and shut down within a few seconds and coasted to a stop on the shoulder.

The following day I came back with a trailer and was able to pull it off the road with another car using tow straps. After we got to a parking area to get it onto the trailer, I decided to chance driving it onto the trailer. It started up noisily and I was able to get it to move... but only for about 15 seconds and far enough to just get the front wheels onto the ramp before it totally let go and vented the block. Had to use ratchet straps to get it the rest of the way onto the trailer. :eek:

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