Snap! No engine start!

1997ThunderbirdLXV6

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In this episode of owning a daily driver from the last century, I get into my car in the supermarket parking lot, turn the key, the starter briefly kicks in, then snap!, then silence.

The ignition is ON, but the key turns loosely in the key hole.

I immediately figure it must be those two off-white plastic pieces in the column. I remove the lower trim, the ignition switch, and start the car "by hand". The steering column lock and shift lock are both unlocked, so I'm able to drive home. Where I arrived a minute ago.

Now...
  • How tedious is this repair?
  • Is this common?
  • Are there OEM parts? If not, any particular aftermarket brand preferable?
  • Is there a metal (or more solid) version of those things?
I'm just guessing that I should go with new parts. Who knows what condition junkyard parts would be in.

The ignition switch itself slides somewhat heavily, but they all seem to be like that in the junkyards. I once opened one of these switches, filled it with silicone lube, and it was still just as heavy (due to the springs).


Damn. Always something. Any advice is appreciated!
 
I can only find one of the pieces on RA, but I know there are two. And I can't verify tonight which one is broken. I assumed they were a set.

Screenshot_20250513_200529_Samsung Internet.jpg



What do I have to do to prevent future damage? And does steering wheel tilt have any part in this? Mine is in the center position.
 
At $7, or even $29, it isn’t worth pulling apart a column in the junkyard, other than for practice on your own car. But I would just replace it and not worry about it. The ignition switches on the 89-93 columns fail all the time, but it is a rare occurrence on the 94-97 ones.
 
That’s wild I’ve never actually heard of an IRL instance of that piece breaking
 
I’ve seen it twice, however both of those cars were high mileage neglected beaters, one of which had deployed airbags. This is the first time seeing it failed on a nice low mileage car like Martin’s.
 
You could go through my post "Ignition Lock Cylinder and assembly" to see what I went through in fixing mine.

I found out the other day, "again" that my strarter is to blame for my miserable life... er... never mind. While trying to start my car when the rotor was blown up inside the cap and would not start, the starter make this freaking noice once, then not turn over. I would just "click". I turned the key off and back on and it the starter turns over. That never happened when I had my ignition key issue.
 
My roommate took me to the only late opening Autozone around, which had one Dorman unit in stock, I bought it, and now looking at it closely, it seems the plastic is already splitting. Or is this normal?

20250513_225139.jpg20250513_224923.jpg20250513_225041.jpg
 
My roommate took me to the only late opening Autozone around, which had one Dorman unit in stock, I bought it, and now looking at it closely, it seems the plastic is already splitting. Or is this normal?

View attachment 11971View attachment 11972View attachment 11973
Not seeing any splitting, but my eyes are crap anymore.... Maybe that is why it was the last one. I took a chance at getting one from RockAuto that was the last one.... I missed a bullet on that one.
 
Do I have to remove this ring?

20250514_131148.jpg

I'm kind of stuck right now. The two bolts holding the upper tier column are out, yet it doesn't budge. The tilt spring is out. I think the two little tilt arms at the bottom are the issue (?).
 
...ok, it's out.

Question is: where is the pin?

Copied my post from TSTSNBN. This is from October 2, 2007.

It’s not in the steering linkage. You’re looking in the wrong place. The issue is in the ignition linkage.

With the column tilted down and the key in and turned back one notch you can see the linkage that I'm talking about where the column pivots and the pin that connects them should be.

You can see the pin in mine in the picture below. Make sure that your pin is in place and the linkage moves forward and back as you turn your key. This is where mine seperated and I had the same "car won't shut off" problem that you described. My guess is that your pin has fallen out too. I marked the location on your car in the second photo below.

I fashioned a coat hanger and hooked the lower linkage in the eyelet where the pin was missing and pulled it back to turn the car off. This is a good temporary solution until you can get it fixed.

You'll need to remove the two screws that hold the steering column in place to replace that pin. Be careful of that big spring that pushes the column up when you release the tilt steering lever.

Unless your very confident in your skills I'd let a pro or some one who's pulled a steering column apart before do it.

IMG_5332.webpIMG_5333.webp
 
Thank you, @Trunk Monkey.

I actually found the pin. It was in the compartment that the steering shaft goes through.

It just apparently fell out, but the plastic piece doesn't even look broken at all.

20250514_134255.jpg

Yeah, I know, enough grease.

The pin goes back into the hole firmly, too.

Now reinstalling it is the next mess...

Unless your very confident in your skills I'd let a pro or some one who's pulled a steering column apart before do it.

A pro isn't in the budget.
 
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Ok...now I need some advice!

There are two options at this point:

  • Follow Ford workshop manual; this means:
    • Remove steering column from vehicle
    • Disassemble steering column
    • Install new actuator rod
  • For: official Ford procedure
  • Against: kind of intimidating, time-consuming, and I'm worried about steering wheel alignment
OR
  • Follow essentially all online tutorials; this means:
    • Steering column remains on vehicle
    • New actuator rod has to be filed down some at the head in order to be installed
  • For: it fixes the issue, don't overthink it
  • Against: filing down the head of the actuator may make it more prone to future breakage

Thoughts?
 
A pro isn't in the budget.

So you’re confident in your skills. Glad that you’re able to do it yourself and you found the pin. I had my brother help me and he’s a lot more mechanically inclined than I am.

Yeah, that pin will somehow work itself out. It’s crazy!

The route I went was to just put the pin back in and call it a day. It’s worked fine since 2007.
 
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But how did you insert the actuator with the pin?

I don’t recall, that was 18 years ago. (Holy shit! Where does the time go???) Like I said, my brother helped me.

I’m sure someone else here will have an answer about how to put it back together.
 
This line here.

View attachment 11974


Did you mention in your other thread that you had an extra one? (Maybe I misread?)

If you have one, could you check if it has this same line there?
I saw that and thought it was part of the metal post, a portion pinched out so it won't turn in the plastic. But you know best, if you say its a crack, well then, by God, it's a crack. Are you going to return it? Or get another one?
 

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