The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

G1 or H1?

And how much modding did you have to do for them to mate to the 9007 sockets?
 
Statement: The 4.6 on our cars' engine take 5w-20 oil

Question: Do these engines take dino oil, synthetic blend oil, or full synthetic oil?
 
No variable valve timing garbage on our cars so you can run any type (conventional, blend, full synthetic) of oil that you desire.

This is from the 1997 owner's manual with regards to what viscosity Ford recommended:

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A lot of companies switched from 5W-30 to 5W-20 in the early 2000's as XR7-4.6 stated to get a little more fuel mileage.
 
I won't use Dino oil in a cheap lawnmower, lol.
Quaker state to Castrol Full Synthetic gave me 5mpg. Lazarus had QS in it when I got it.
 
5W-30 Dino oil is just fine in our cars if you change it every 3k or 12 months, whichever comes first. Synthetic is best, but YMM(literally)V.

5W-30 was the spec the car was engineered to use. 5W-20 was the bean counter spec to prevent class action suits over reduced fuel economy when E10 gasoline became the national standard.
 
Oooo, oooo... I have a stupid question!!!!

When I run the A/C on high and driving around town, there is this smell, like antifreeze or A/C or tranny or gas smell that is emitted. My Town Car did that once when we coming into Vegas after a long dusty drive from Albuquerque. What the heck is that smell??? Amaaco said it is the tranny passing heated fumes when the tranny gets hot. I have a tranny cooler on both cars.

Any suggestions?
 
I had an ac smell a while ago, it musty and almost chemical like. I was told R134a smells like horse shit.
It ended up being the ac coil in the dash was moldy. Cleaned it out and all good now.
 
I had an ac smell a while ago, it musty and almost chemical like. I was told R134a smells like horse shit.
It ended up being the ac coil in the dash was moldy. Cleaned it out and all good now.
What or how did you clean it out, if you don't mind me asking. Thanks!

I was thinking it can't be mold, I live in desert! But after 25 + years, it can accumulate and all it needs is some moisture to come alive.
 
In searching "how to clean A/C coil", of all the u-toob headliner pics, ones showing goofy guys trying to clean out thier HVAC... this one got the most hits... I wonder why.

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(it really did not get the most hits, but I think the creators thought it would.)
 
I was thinking it can't be mold, I live in desert! But after 25 + years, it can accumulate and all it needs is some moisture to come alive.

Plenty of perspiration on a hot day; your body cools off when it evaporates and it condenses on the AC coil. 🤔
 
Here's one to properly match with the thread's title: When I unlock the driver's door manually (by rotating the key in the door lock cylinder), should the passenger side door unlock as well? Currently it does not unlock the passenger side.

My car has remote power locks (which are non-functional), but no keyless/keypad entry. The power locks work fine when operated from the switches on the door panel (inside).
 
For me I took the blower out and sprayed the evaporator directly with this stuff (made for home AC systems) it works fantastic


View attachment 13135
I used something similar, make sure it’s a no rinse type. I also used a small brush to clear out as much debris as possible. I ran some water over the coils and made sure the drain was clear.
There’s not much room in there, I used a flashlight and my phone camera to check progress.
 
So, I just got a message from my tuner about shutting off the check engine light for the trans swap.

“Ok bad news. I can't turn off those codes. The strategy files for that year simply dont go into enough detail. Ive turned off the functional parts of the transmission control but I can't access the monitoring controls.”

Does this seem right to you guys?
 

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