What or how did you clean it out, if you don't mind me asking. Thanks!
I used something similar, make sure it’s a no rinse type. I also used a small brush to clear out as much debris as possible. I ran some water over the coils and made sure the drain was clear.
Not to turn this into a BITOG oil fight, but I used to run conventional in all of my cars and I cannot recall any of them having less than 250k miles when they were retired due to rust or sold. My old '92 V6 T-Bird was all conventional and ran a LOT of Fram filters. When the rear upper shock mounts rusted out at 260k the engine ran great and burned no oil. I think it is more about regular maintenance most of the time than what brand oil or filter you are using. Now, late model garbage with all of these variable valve timing solenoids and other crap, yeah, I'll put synthetic in those since they seem so sensitive to everything. Oh, my lawnmower runs conventional oil.
Conventional oil is fine for most cars, as long as you change it frequently. Synthetic oil will last longer, and doesn’t change viscosity as much with extreme hot or extreme cold temperatures, so the advantages will be most apparent during cold starts in the dead of winter, or when doing 100mph in 100F heat. Plus there is just the convenience factor of not having to change the oil as often.
I don't disagree with any of the advantages of synthetic over conventional that you listed and you are spot on. Even I have slowly converted over the years from conventional to synthetic blend to full synthetic since it is easier to find and only a few dollars more for a 5 quart jug and I can stretch my change intervals out a bit.
Euh... not a pretty picture.Plenty of perspiration on a hot day; your body cools off when it evaporates and it condenses on the AC coil.
