Grog6
Moderator
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2023
- Messages
- 2,592
- Location
- Harriman, TN
- Vehicle Details
- 2x 1996 Cougars, 1997 Tbird 4.6's all.
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Moddern spark plug wires won't check with a meter. They don't contain a wire.
Our wires can be measured for resistance (Ohms), since their values can affect spark.Moddern spark plug wires won't check with a meter. They don't contain a wire.
No...this was back in December 2023, months before the tremor started.So the gap has been causing your tremor?
I've checked them...but I'll check them again.As I dated in my other thread #5 work was loose, it popped off the plug a couple times. I doubt that of your issue.
"Does it still run rough if you leave the EGR valve vacuum line disconnected?"Does it still run rough if you leave the EGR valve vacuum line disconnected? You can safely plug it (the line to the EVR near the coil) to prevent a vacuum leak while driving. If it fixes the issue the EVR is leaky.
Ruling things out, once item at a time...![]()
I applied dielectric grease to the inside of the plug boots with Q-Tips.how much dielectric grease are you putting on/in tip of plug boot? I had a case of poor idle when I was too liberal with it and had to clean up the plug tips and it fixed that.
Gotcha...I'll try what you suggest and let you know.The EVR (EGR vacuum solenoid) regulates manifold vacuum to the EGR valve. It's attached to the front of the engine on the passenger side by the coil pack; red and green vacuum lines run to it.
Got it...on my to-do list today.Nah, what I'm trying to help figure out in this round is if the EVR isn't sealing completely when closed. If it isn't, then it's possible a small amount of vacuum is reaching the EGR valve, opening it slightly. You could test from idle by just disconnecting the vacuum line from the EGR valve. If the idle smooths out and/or if you notice any vacuum on the disconnected hose, it might be the problem.
Results of what you recommended with the EGR/EVR:Nah, what I'm trying to help figure out in this round is if the EVR isn't sealing completely when closed. If it isn't, then it's possible a small amount of vacuum is reaching the EGR valve, opening it slightly. You could test from idle by just disconnecting the vacuum line from the EGR valve. If the idle smooths out and/or if you notice any vacuum on the disconnected hose, it might be the problem.
Just tried that now, while making dinner.OK, so EGR is working properly and there are no signs it's contributing to the issue. At least we can rule all that out.
Weird suggestion, but if you throw it in D or R and ever so slightly open the throttle to add 30 or 40 RPM, does the stability of the low idle change at all?
Plugs, ignition coils, and wires were replaced in March 2024 with Autolite Double Platinum & Motorcraft.That sounds like plugs and wires, to me. That ould be a vacuum leak; at that throttle setting,the airflow could be overwhelming the leak, or bad iac. But I think it's unlikely to be trans related.
Yeah, I read in another posting that our coils put out something like 160kV each.Our spark is really high voltage, it soaks longer at low rpms, so it can be more likely to leak. It can also keep it from accelerating, just to be thorough.
Update on tremor:how much dielectric grease are you putting on/in tip of plug boot? I had a case of poor idle when I was too liberal with it and had to clean up the plug tips and it fixed that.
Yeah, I know...it's bizarre.If I was working on this, I'd try to get my hands on known good parts to swap in to see if anything changes. I know I've said I don't think they're the source of the issue but we're running out of things to try...
If Gordo has a good MAF and IAC to test with those are easy enough to swap out to test. O2s might also not be a bad idea to check. Maybe even 1/4-1/2 turn or so either way on the TB set screw (mark it first so you can put it back if it doesn't help or causes other ill effects).
Yeah, you do.I do have a MAF and IAC. Just need to get my lazy ass over to see the car!!