I have a 93, it had two metering blocks for the rear, I want to have it where there’s a line for each side of the front coming off the proportioning valve and one line for the rear that I’m going to T into the pre existing lines going out back.
Is that pattern in the plastic or is that a metal wire rock guard grill? I’ve never seen headlights with that pattern. Where did you get it from?
I have thought about going to GM headlights, but decided I like stock better. I've seen some with a much tight grid in them. Not sure I've seen them like that.
Very old pic. Before I figured out the upper mount mod to make them truly flush
2007ish
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Last time I had them
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Now hold on just a second. Are you telling me you can replace the headlight bulbs on these things without removing the front bumper cover, left front fender and both doors? I've been working on too many late model cars lately.Speaking of bulbs, there’s so much space between the header panel and core support now it’s almost as if MN12s were designed to use 9005/9006 bulbs in the first place
I did flush it out but I think by the nature of being a valve it probably retained some old fluid inside and it pulled in moisture. I did the same flush to the lines and they’re still mint.
The good news is I soaked them in penetrating oil for a few hours tonight and scrubbed the bores with a tiny brush and got rid of the vast majority of it, to the point I might actually roll the dice and run it. All the rubber is good and there’s no pitting where the external O rings seal against.
My biggest area of concern however is the internal seal on the valve itself, there’s definitely some pitting in that deep section but I’m not sure how it would effect brake performance, as there seems to be some deliberate controlled flow through there as the rubber seal has grooves(like a tire tread) to let high pressure brake fluid pass to begin with. In fact it’s the only possible way for pressure to go to the rear brakes; the master circuits enter from the top, there’s unrestricted flow to the front calipers from the sides and the rears on the bottom are physically separated by that treaded seal(controlled leak?) hydraulics aren’t my strongsuit so I’m probably huffing copioum somewhat but the only thing that acts on that spring is the rear brake circuit so… We’ll see. Right now I kind of trust what I have despite its wounds over another used one after tonight’s dissection.
Oh on the full topic of the thread at hand I also gutted the last remaining ABS wiring to the rear sensors! That’s actually a shitload of wire! I know it’s not going to be impressive in the grand scheme but I from the start intend to weigh the FULL wire + HCU + sensors of the ABS system to see what they add to this platform down to the ounce… minus the dashboard harness, since that’s a pain in the ass, marginal and ALL MN12 dash harnesses are prewired for the couple of ABS circuits within. I for one am curious enough to see the tally that it’s motivated this pointless project of mine
... It's a Dynomax mid pipe, and muffler delete. IDK why these cars came with a mushed mid pipe from the factory?
Hey Kenz, take 20 min and some steel wool and polish up those pipes!Drained the oil while it's in the air waiting for fuel pump parts, going to put in a new FL820s. I bought a box of 12 fl820s in 2019, they were $4.19 each back then. Guess that was a good purchase since they are about 8$ each now.
Here is a picture of my fancy exhaust setup
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Was going to change the exhaust setup, but decided to just get some new tips to replace the rusted ones. Maybe ill even be cheap and get the steel wool out and see if they clean up
