XR7-4.6’s disjointed build thread 2 Electric Boogaloo

[Mtncat]

Looks like you are getting a lot completed Matt. Hope ya have it rolling soon!

 

[XR7-4.6]

Looks like you are getting a lot completed Matt. Hope ya have it rolling soon!

Me too! I’ve been getting it all buttoned up the last few nights so all that’s left to do is the exhaust which will be Saturday’s project. I may take it to the local cruise night Friday with open headers if the weather cooperates

 

[XR7-4.6]

Soooo I mentioned earlier my stock motor mounts were toast and I replaced them… part of the reason I was hesitant to replace them was because I suspected new ones would kill hood clearance(even with the 3/4” K member spacers I added…

Well good news! The hood still shuts which it wouldn’t with stock motor mounts without spacers… but clearance, oof…

I recon with that pesky bolt removed I’ve got maybe 5/16” clearance between the intake and hood. Good thing I have that torque strap!

 

[MadMikeyL]

Can you run it without that bolt, or will it cause a vacuum leak?

 

[Chingon1]

You only have the torque strap on the driver side??

 

[XR7-4.6]

Can you run it without that bolt, or will it cause a vacuum leak?

Its not really necessary, didn’t even have this bolt on it when I first swapped this engine in, I ended up stealing it from the marauder intake I flipped a year later.

Nevertheless I’m going to try to find a 110mm long M6x1.00 buttonhead alan bolt to satisfy my OCD

Edit, perfect!

binifiMux 10pcs M6 x 115mm Rivet Countersunk Socket Cap Allen Bolts Rivet Screws Furniture Connecting 304 Stainless Steel: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

binifiMux 10pcs M6 x 115mm Rivet Countersunk Socket Cap Allen Bolts Rivet Screws Furniture Connecting 304 Stainless Steel: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

You only have the torque strap on the driver side??

That’s the only side it’s beneficial as the engine tries to rotate the opposite of crank direction under load(eg the driver side tries to lift). Putting one on the passenger side wouldn’t do anything

 

[XR7-4.6]

So I used to have the pipes splayed apart towards the center to fit the Mustang H pipe I was running and the fit was kinda weird, with the Magnaflow muffler it seems to match the intended spacing of the mandrel kit so I’m hoping this kills a few birds with one stone.



Oh and I cut the previous links in half and welded them with my welder, I’m practically a pro at this now

 

[XR7-4.6]

Oh yeah did anyone want to hear open headers?

 

[Chingon1]

That’s killer, so pretty much no cats, magnaflow mid muffler and str8 out back??

 

[XR7-4.6]

Yep, I had midmount magnaflow before the DOHC swap and always loved its sound, something about tailpipes being behind the muffler just sounds better, same reason I think Fox and SN95s sound better than modern ones

Few other loose ends I had to deal with. I remembered @97_30th had trouble with the unisteer U joint and headers interfering but I seemed to get fairly lucky but it is tight, I’m hoping my torque strap will prevent contact but just in case I used a button head bolt and ground the welded nut for a little more clearance. I’d like to bash the tube a hair too but I can’t get any speed from my hammer in such a tight space.



Also went back to the cut Tokicos while I was here





I’ll be kicking myself for it first time I hear the air dam scrape but I only put the taller Vogtlands back in trying to fix an issue it didn’t solve or turn out even exist.

 

[Chingon1]

Yep, I had midmount magnaflow before the DOHC swap and always loved its sound, something about tailpipes being behind the muffler just sounds better, same reason I think Fox and SN95s sound better than modern ones

Few other loose ends I had to deal with. I remembered @97_30th had trouble with the unisteer U joint and headers interfering but I seemed to get fairly lucky but it is tight, I’m hoping my torque strap will prevent contact but just in case I used a button head bolt and ground the welded nut for a little more clearance. I’d like to bash the tube a hair too but I can’t get any speed from my hammer in such a tight space.

View attachment 12844View attachment 12843

Also went back to the cut Tokicos while I was here

View attachment 12845
View attachment 12846


I’ll be kicking myself for it first time I hear the air dam scrape but I only put the taller Vogtlands back in trying to fix an issue it didn’t solve or turn out even exist.

I think the 5.0 4.6 sounds better than the coyote totally. My idea is that the coyote sounds different because it can adjust the cams itself, like pretty much any new DOHC motor. The 1UZ sounds like that, Lexus ISF and lc500 with the 5.0 have pretty much the same sound. Something about the cams adjusting give it that sound, which sounds kinda wack to me.

Anyways, I really like how sn95’s and new edges sound dumping right out the muffler instead of going all the way back. Kinda like how our cars run the muffler all the way out back.

 

[dDUBb]

Oh yeah did anyone want to hear open headers?

Music to my ears.

 

[theterminator93]

I can still hear the open manifolds on mine from like 15 years ago when I did my own exhaust work, not quite as elegant as open headers on a 4v with fat cams, but still!

 

[KevinVarnes]

Is that the TrueBendz exhaust system? Looks really nice.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I think the 5.0 4.6 sounds better than the coyote totally. My idea is that the coyote sounds different because it can adjust the cams itself, like pretty much any new DOHC motor. The 1UZ sounds like that, Lexus ISF and lc500 with the 5.0 have pretty much the same sound. Something about the cams adjusting give it that sound, which sounds kinda wack to me.

Anyways, I really like how sn95’s and new edges sound dumping right out the muffler instead of going all the way back. Kinda like how our cars run the muffler all the way out back.

Yeah I’ve tried to figure it out as I tend to think the few firing patterns for a 90° V8 is mostly BS with regards to sound but maybe it is that variable timing. There’s a harshness and raspiness to even Coyote swapped Foxbodies that turn me off. Nevertheless I stand by the muffler placement, 03-04 Cobras sound way way better than 07-14 GT500s in spite of essentially just being a bigger cube version of the old school fixed cam 4Vs

Music to my ears.

I can still hear the open manifolds on mine from like 15 years ago when I did my own exhaust work, not quite as elegant as open headers on a 4v with fat cams, but still!

I remember running mine off the manifolds around the same time after the PI swap and thinking it sounded great but it’s a whole next level hearing my car sound like this. It’s like when I finally ditched my crate amp for an Orange with a greenback cab

Is that the TrueBendz exhaust system? Looks really nice.

Yep! The 2.5” 304 stainless kit. My buddy got it for me several years back after fixing up one of his SCs and kind of had it cobbled to work with the stock Mustang exhaust front half I acquired when I was gathering 4V stuff. I can’t wait to hear it at its full potential, I’ve been piecing together the front section much of the evening from my mandrel kit.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I’m so glad I made that crossmember, these universal mandrel bends are going together like a Lego kit with all the clearance it afforded me.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Alright got the downtubes cut and tacked, got the V band flanges to the muffler tacked got the 90° elbows to the V bands cut out and positioned so all I have left is to do the straight sections of pipe and the 90° bends from them to the muffler ones, I just need to measure things out tack them in place and tack in the hangers



Also threw my master cylinder back in and began bleeding the brakes(my main goal today was that and wash the 8 months old dust off the car, but I got side tracked lol). I looked high and low for this master to booster gasket, hardware store O rings, thermostat O rings etc. I cannot find the part number for it and I’m not going to buy a new master cylinder to get a new one, so I “fixed” it, gluing the tears together with a few dabs of RTV spread with a toothpick.