Chatbox Thread

Trunk Monkey said:
That’s a mess!
Click to expand...
Yup. Trying to convert it to a solid state relay from a 99 caravan, which dissipates heat into the frame it mounts to. I must have gotten a bad one though, cause it send power at all times. Then it stopped working.
 
There are .250 quick disconnects like that rated for high current; I have some.
 
Why dont they just only push electric cars on delivery services? I will never forget buying a knife made from a nearby town, and watching it get shipped from the east coast
 
Vicinity said:
Why dont they just only push electric cars on delivery services? I will never forget buying a knife made from a nearby town, and watching it get shipped from the east coast
Click to expand...

They're working on that .. 😉

I'm not sure what you're implying .. buying directly from the manufacturer and cutting out the middleman ?? 🤔

The goal of electric vehicles and autonomy is to forgo vehicle "ownership" and create a ridesharing type of service.
 
dDUBb said:
They're working on that .. 😉

I'm not sure what you're implying .. buying directly from the manufacturer and cutting out the middleman ?? 🤔

The goal of electric vehicles and autonomy is to forgo vehicle "ownership" and create a ridesharing type of service.
Click to expand...
I was pissed off that I bought a knife some time ago, the factory is close by. It got shipped from the east coast. I guess its my fault for buying from the middle man. If its so green to go electric, then we should start on goods instead of residential to forgive sending something back and forth the whole country
 
Anyone have tricks for replacing a front sway bar? I don't wanna pull the engine or drop the subframe. And I've unfortunately bent the front sway enough to cut the driver side brake line. Passenger side still has a lot of room. IMG_20240805_171002636.jpg
 
If it's bent, and must be replaced, I'd cut it in easily removable chunks. Save the labor for putting the new one in.
Even with the engine completely out, it's not easy to get out. A 4" air cutoff, and it's easy.
 
How are things going there Darren?

Joe
 
It’s tracking into central New York late Friday night into Saturday morning so we’ll have some rain but not real heavy amounts……hopefully! 😬

Joe
 
Working on my MIL's 2012 Ford Fuckus. Changed spark plugs and in the middle of replacing radiator hoses. But both the supply and return hoses are making it difficult to remove the hose clamps.

The return side, the radiator side clamp will not allow any of my pliers room to get over the clamp. The supply side, same thing, but it's on the engine block side where I can't get any of my pliers over the clamp.

Oh, and then this car has a fuel leak! My MIL had mentioned it to me, and I told her I'd take a look at it. Now that the car has the nose up, there's a slow but steady drip of fuel coming from the rear side of the fuel tank. I haven't investigated yet exactly where the leak is coming from, but that's what's happening.
 
I guess pictures might help, yeah?

Return side. Clamps facing the frame / body of the car, preventing me from getting pliers over it

PXL_20240810_061849909.jpg

Supply side. Same where I can't get any of my pliers over the clamp.

PXL_20240810_061907070.jpg

Spot way in the back is the leaking fuel.

PXL_20240810_061926288.jpg
 
For all of you guys, you want one of these. you can put those tabs pretty much wherever you want.
If you have spent time changing a hose,it turns a 2 hour job with vice grips into a 20 minute thing.
 
I've used a hammer and screwdriver, prybar, etc to knock the clamp in place so I could get a wrench on the clamp properly.
 
Well, the pliers thing didn't work for the other side. Current situation is that I've had to use my Dremel tool to cut off the tabs, and my box cutter to cut off a small section, but even then, it's still not coming off. I'm able to move it a little bit, but it's not coming off at all.

PXL_20240810_234053617.jpg
 
Hammer and screw driver... I'm telling you.... hammer and screw driver. Don't be shy on the torque you put into it.

You have to break that seal that molds after time.
 
New radiator hoses are on, clamped, and system filled. It just needs to be burped.

I suspect that the system is leaking coolant from somewhere, and I believe it to be from the radiator fill / overflow tank thing it has (same type setup as our MN12s), as there was coolant residue below that tank. However! It may just be leftovers from when her car was overheating because of a faulty radiator fan where she said her car steamed on at least two occasions before getting it repaired.

I found the fuel leak, and it's where the filler hose meets the tank. Specifically, it's the sealing grommet thing that's failing. Here in this picture, you can see where it's cracking. Oil (gas) and debris have filled in the crevices of where it's leaking from. The car has a full tank of gas currently, and I don't know what this part is quite yet, but I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to be looking like this, lol.

This was before I cleaned it. After I cleaned it, two more (smaller) racks were visible on the right side.
PXL_20240811_063907807.jpg
 
I don't remember that fitting on my tank when I dropped, but yeah, there should be a replacement part out there. And of course, wait till the tank is down to a quarter or more. While your at it, inspect the fuel pump, filter and lines for any indication of wear or breakdown and replace while you can. Dropping the tank is not that hard, but easier if you don't have re-visit it again.

Nice job on the radiator! Glad you got it worked out.
 
Anyone happen to have photos of the interiors of our cars, completely bare? No interior panels at all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Back
Top