Ignition Lock Cylinder and assembly

[supergordo]

Question. Have you unbolted the ignition switch from the column and tried starting it that way? There are two T30 torx bolts. You can lower the ignition switch and manually move the rod to start the car. If it starts better then with the key then you will need to look inside the column. And yes if could be the actuator that you posted the picture of, or the mating piece that is in the lower part of the column that actually moves the rod on the ignition switch.

 

[dDUBb]

What Gordo said .. and yeah the actuator linkage is two pieces ( on tilt wheel ) - I remember having to replace something to that extent inside the column i had to disassemble on a 95 Mark; but that was almost 20 years ago so I couldn't recall the symptoms. I know I still have one retainer pin I accidently ordered, somewhere in my hoarder stash.

 

[White Lincoln]

Question. Have you unbolted the ignition switch from the column and tried starting it that way? There are two T30 torx bolts. You can lower the ignition switch and manually move the rod to start the car. If it starts better then with the key then you will need to look inside the column. And yes if could be the actuator that you posted the picture of, or the mating piece that is in the lower part of the column that actually moves the rod on the ignition switch.

STOP READING MY MIND!!!!! Dang it! That was my next step. I realized that since the parts seemed the same and no damage to the innards, it could be the switch the key assembly turns the gear inside to turn the ignition on.

"Yeah, yeah... I'm getting there.... "

Thanks guys for the confirmation I am on the right track.

 

[97teebs]

The gear assembly is what I was referring to way back at the beginning

 

[97teebs]

in your picture above, with a hook pick you can get that green plastic out of the way once you do then take picture from same angle. then you can remove the gear thats behind the green plastic. the point of the picture without the green plastic is so you line the gear exactly how you removed it. once you have the gear out inspect it for wear/broken or chipped teeth also inspect the upper side of where that gear goes into for the same. try not to move the flat gear (thats left in when you remove the circular gear) because that will also change the timing and just make it harder to put back together. if you reassemble and you can't turn key to accs. or to start that means you didn't set the timing correctly. its not often that those pieces break but it is possible. if it is broken it doesn't have to come out of a cougar/thunderbird any ford 1996 and older with exception to the escort/probe type cars so any of the rangers or F series crown vic etc... also while you have the gear out slide it onto your ign and make sure there isn't alot of play between the male part of the IGN and the Female part of the gear.

Right here I was talking about it

 

[White Lincoln]

I looked into that as well. There is a plastic piece, the Ignition Switch Actuator and I wondered if that could be the issue as well. Then I read up on it and it either works or breaks and if it goes out, you can't turn the key. So, not the issue, if this is the piece you are referring to.

View attachment 6110

I started the car by using a standard screwdriver and pushing on the "steering column lock lever actuator"... shew... to many big words.



The ignition did its click and I pushed again and it started. Then I got a small scare... "how do I shut it off?"


Pulled the coil to rotor cap wire. Stopped it dead.

Okay, so after investigating the situation some more, the above aforementioned item could have a chipped tooth, worn teeth or it could be the battery. I need to clean up the gears from the lithium grease and see if any of the teeth look "wack'd".



But if it was the battery, the starter would just make the infamous sound of "click, click, click, click, click..." and it would not start at all, or turn over rather nonchalantly, "gerrur... gerrur, gerrur.... "(sp).

What I am concerned about is the tilt spring. If I remove the assembly, how hard is it to compress the spring to put the assembly back into the steering shaft assembly? It even says in the service manual "get HELP when doing this part". Well, not those exact words.

Do you guys have a preference on what kind of grease you use for the steering assembly? I have a grease gun tube of Valvoline Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease (red). I really don't want to go to the store if I don't have too.

 

[White Lincoln]

PS: Taking a moment to give a shout out to 97teebs for his mention in the first of the post about tearing out the inside of the cylinder assembly to see if any of the 3 parts where damaged and if the lock actuator was damaged or missing teeth. i kept thinking about it and then i finally did it, on both the one in the car and donor part. Getting them back in just right is a total PITA though unless you can install it back again where gravity assists.

 

[Grog6]

Were the teeth or other stuff damaged?

 

[supergordo]

I rebuilt the steering column for my 97 E350 last year about this time. Same setup except for column shifter. The tilt spring you can pop out with a large screwdriver. Just pay attention so it doesn't go flying. Thankfully it isn't like our front coil springs, but better safe than sorry. If I recall right I installed it using a channel locks to squeeze it down a bit. Get it wedged into its home a little then tap it in with a hammer.

 

[White Lincoln]

Were the teeth or other stuff damaged?

Hi Grog, I was farting around with TracFone trying to get some minutes setup and have not pulled the assembly. As I mentioned, I am concerned about the steering adjust spring and not being able to get the SOB back together. I may have to pay some bumm off the street to help with this, unless someone has a way to do it on one's own.

 

[White Lincoln]

I rebuilt the steering column for my 97 E350 last year about this time. Same setup except for column shifter. The tilt spring you can pop out with a large screwdriver. Just pay attention so it doesn't go flying. Thankfully it isn't like our front coil springs, but better safe than sorry. If I recall right I installed it using a channel locks to squeeze it down a bit. Get it wedged into its home a little then tap it in with a hammer.

Maybe someone makes a tiny coil spring compressor...

 

[White Lincoln]

Thanks for confidence to give this a go. Last thing I want is a little 3" spring to be bouncing off my forehead leaving a dent I will never forget and will always regret.

 

[supergordo]

Ah, the spring is like 1.5 inch. It's not heavily loaded. You will be alright. You have a junk yard nearby? Can you buy a used column? If not it really isn't that difficult to take the two halves of the column apart. There are some videos on Youtube for the same era Ford columns to give you some info. No Tbird specific videos though. I guess I should film one...

 

[Grog6]

When I needed the washer off the top of a shock assembly, I took the jesus nut off a car without a lower wheel, lol. It went thru one side of a van, lol.

 

[supergordo]

When I needed the washer off the top of a shock assembly, I took the jesus nut off a car without a lower wheel, lol. It went thru one side of a van, lol.

Not to hijack the thread with Tbird front spring stories... Back in 2005 I lived in an apartment. I had bought the complete Tokico Blue Shock and spring kit from Shox.com. (New guys, don't look for it, you can't buy it anymore). I bought new upper shock mounts. It was as I was doing the job that I realized I needed those damn washers from the top of the front mounts. So I had my car in the garage of our apartment. Once I realized there was no getting around the washer Issue and I already had the spring compressor on the new Tokico Spring.... I laid the old shock assembly on the ground. I butted the top side against the foundation of the garage. I stood on the spring. I was maybe 160lbs at the time. And I used an open end wrench to undo the Jesus nut. Once it let go the and the spring unloaded the shock shot across the pavement and hit the garage across on the other side. It was nerve wracking but it made me laugh!

 

[97teebs]

I started the car by using a standard screwdriver and pushing on the "steering column lock lever actuator"... shew... to many big words.

View attachment 6366

The ignition did its click and I pushed again and it started. Then I got a small scare... "how do I shut it off?"


Pulled the coil to rotor cap wire. Stopped it dead.

Okay, so after investigating the situation some more, the above aforementioned item could have a chipped tooth, worn teeth or it could be the battery. I need to clean up the gears from the lithium grease and see if any of the teeth look "wack'd".

View attachment 6365

But if it was the battery, the starter would just make the infamous sound of "click, click, click, click, click..." and it would not start at all, or turn over rather nonchalantly, "gerrur... gerrur, gerrur.... "(sp).

What I am concerned about is the tilt spring. If I remove the assembly, how hard is it to compress the spring to put the assembly back into the steering shaft assembly? It even says in the service manual "get HELP when doing this part". Well, not those exact words.

Do you guys have a preference on what kind of grease you use for the steering assembly? I have a grease gun tube of Valvoline Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease (red). I really don't want to go to the store if I don't have too.

I can't really tell in your Pic due to the Greese there is supposed to be a flat spot in it circular ggeat that's the off position then one more tooth behind it for acc...

 

[White Lincoln]

Well guys (and gals), I purchased the infamous part from RockAuto. Should be here... er... when HELL freezes over! I am going to put the wheel back on and hook 'er up for operation incase we need the car before hell freezes over.

I cannot thank all of you enough for your comments, suggestions and inspiration in getting this friken problem solved. I will be back on this subject when I tear out the tilt assembly and replace the part, regrease everything and I will probably have a lot of questions.

Again, thanks to everyone for their input (so far - this story aint over till the fat lady sings!)

 

[White Lincoln]

I can't really tell in your Pic due to the Greese there is supposed to be a flat spot in it circular ggeat that's the off position then one more tooth behind it for acc...

Yeah, hard to see that gear real well. As mentioned, I need to remove that grease, but since I ordered the part, I am going to not worry about it. I think that part has seen better days... being plastic and all.

 

[White Lincoln]

Not to hijack the thread with Tbird front spring stories... Back in 2005 I lived in an apartment. I had bought the complete Tokico Blue Shock and spring kit from Shox.com. (New guys, don't look for it, you can't buy it anymore). I bought new upper shock mounts. It was as I was doing the job that I realized I needed those damn washers from the top of the front mounts. So I had my car in the garage of our apartment. Once I realized there was no getting around the washer Issue and I already had the spring compressor on the new Tokico Spring.... I laid the old shock assembly on the ground. I butted the top side against the foundation of the garage. I stood on the spring. I was maybe 160lbs at the time. And I used an open end wrench to undo the Jesus nut. Once it let go the and the spring unloaded the shock shot across the pavement and hit the garage across on the other side. It was nerve wracking but it made me laugh!

Holy Jesus! You are lucky! That could have gone the wrong way and gone through the neighbors window into their kitchen! (or where ever it will do damage) When I took my spring off while undoing the "jesus nut" on my work bench, mine luckily bounced a bit, about a foot or so. No excitement, no neighbor screaming "what did you do to my garage door" or the wife calling 911. My mechanic friend that put the springs on the new struts said I was lucky it did not fly off and smash my face in or go sideways and nock the neighbors kid to the ground (deservingly, that is). I did have him take off and put on my last set I replaced.

Note: Don't buy the spring compressor for HarborFake... it is WAY TOO SHORT!

 

[White Lincoln]

When I needed the washer off the top of a shock assembly, I took the jesus nut off a car without a lower wheel, lol. It went thru one side of a van, lol.

You guys really are nuts! LOL

 

[White Lincoln]

Ah, the spring is like 1.5 inch. It's not heavily loaded. You will be alright. You have a junk yard nearby? Can you buy a used column? If not it really isn't that difficult to take the two halves of the column apart. There are some videos on Youtube for the same era Ford columns to give you some info. No Tbird specific videos though. I guess I should film one...

Thanks buddy. The confidence is re-ashuring. Are you sure I don't need a mini-spring compressor? Film the removal? Hmmm... wife keeps saying i should do YouTube videos, get 100,000 followers and make $30k a month.

HA!

 

[supergordo]

Thanks buddy. The confidence is re-ashuring. Are you sure I don't need a mini-spring compressor? Film the removal? Hmmm... wife keeps saying i should do YouTube videos, get 100,000 followers and make $30k a month.

HA!

That's what I'm doing with my Mn12 specific channel making 2 videos a year. I only have 99,800 followers to go!!

Need to find where I put my mini strut spring compressor tool.....

 

[supergordo]

You guys really are nuts! LOL

Nut being the operative word...

 

[97teebs]

Holy Jesus! You are lucky! That could have gone the wrong way and gone through the neighbors window into their kitchen! (or where ever it will do damage) When I took my spring off while undoing the "jesus nut" on my work bench, mine luckily bounced a bit, about a foot or so. No excitement, no neighbor screaming "what did you do to my garage door" or the wife calling 911. My mechanic friend that put the springs on the new struts said I was lucky it did not fly off and smash my face in or go sideways and nock the neighbors kid to the ground (deservingly, that is). I did have him take off and put on my last set I replaced.

Note: Don't buy the spring compressor for HarborFake... it is WAY TOO SHORT!

 

[Grog6]

The only safe way to do our springs is a wall mounted shock tool. One of the tire shops have one. When I did my sport springs on the koni, I used the forged steel pair of spring compressors. They are rated for 3 toms peak. That's the scariest thing I've ever done. I just realized 500lbs,4 is 2000lbs. But I think the sport springs are higher than that. You have to compress about 4", so it's close. The 3.4" bolts were bending like bannas. I had it on my lap, so it if failed, I'd lose a couple of walls, but I'm not right in the way.

 

[supergordo]

The only safe way to do our springs is a wall mounted shock tool. One of the tire shops have one. When I did my sport springs on the koni, I used the forged steel pair of spring compressors. They are rated for 3 toms peak. That's the scariest thing I've ever done. I just realized 500lbs,4 is 2000lbs. But I think the sport springs are higher than that. You have to compress about 4", so it's close. The 3.4" bolts were bending like bannas. I had it on my lap, so it if failed, I'd lose a couple of walls, but I'm not right in the way.

Well... I'll be the guy and say this. I've compressed our springs with a set of strut spring compressors that I still have. I bought them in the late 80s from Murrays Auto parts in Michigan. Done that several times. Since then I bought a $100 Chinese hydraulic press that I have used many times on MN12s and other cars. It works well too. Our springs are pretty heavily loaded. But it's not impossible. And you don't have to be a lunatic about it. I'll leave the lunacy to the lunatics..

 

[Grog6]

This is pretty much what I have; I think mine is a rotunda or OEM brand, in a blow molded case. My bolts look a little bigger, but the rest is the same. The ends are forged, not cast, and the pins are steel.

 

[White Lincoln]

How the heck to I get this out without having to remove the whole assembly and remove the spring retaining the part holding the gear thingy I am trying to remove?

 

[Zep5.0]

That white plastic piece inside the housing seems to go in another 5". On either side of that is an electrical connection and what I think is the tilt cable. I think you'll have to lower the column so that you can remove those which should then make that plastic come out.

FWIW that tooth missing on yours is 1/3 missing on my parts car's teeth. Maybe meant that way

 

[White Lincoln]

Thanks Zep. I realized I was going to have to take the whole steering assembly out and I was right. To get that gear part out, you have to remove the ignition switch (white box) and the steering shaft and then you can pull out the slide assembly that the gear attaches too to shift the ignition switch from Acc, Off, On and Run.